Jakarta Explore With Japanese Tour Guide

This was not a guided tour deep into the history of Jakarta and Indonesia. It was more about experiencing how Jakarta functions on an average day, getting a flavour of the city, its people, its everyday life — and, as it turned out, some of its rather serious challenges. And our guide, Ine, did an excellent job of showing us exactly that! With her seemingly everlasting avocado-and-chocolate juice in hand, occasionally breaking into an ABBA song, Ine was friendly, spontaneous, joyful, knowledgeable and wonderfully easy to talk to. The day went by far too quickly, and I like to think we made a new friend! We visited the old harbour area, where Jakarta’s story began centuries ago, now serving as a departure point for ferries to nearby islands. We learned about the Dutch colonial period, including the horrific massacre of Jakarta’s Chinese community, and explored parts of Chinatown. One of the highlights was Café Batavia, where we enjoyed a cup of local Luwak coffee — remarkably smooth, mild and rounded in flavour. I could easily have spent hours there, studying the photographs on the walls and absorbing the atmosphere of Jakarta’s colonial past. A wonderful place where history almost seems to sit down at the table with you. We also visited a traditional puppet master. Now, as a Norwegian of a certain age, I have to admit that puppets bring back some rather traumatic memories of children’s television in the early 1970s. Anyone who grew up with Norwegian television during that period may understand what I mean. The rest of you will simply have to take my word for it! On the religious and cultural side, we visited the magnificent Istiqlal Grand Mosque, whose name means independence, and which can accommodate an astonishing 200,000 worshippers during major religious gatherings. Across the street stands Jakarta’s Catholic Cathedral, a striking symbol of the religious diversity and freedom that Indonesia rightly takes pride in. We also saw a Hindu temple, another reminder of the country’s remarkable cultural variety. And then came lunch! Ine took us to a local restaurant, where we had quite simply the best Indonesian meal I have ever tasted. Fried fish with a delicious sweet-and-sour sauce, moderately spicy and perfectly balanced. Then the Indonesian classic: chicken satay with peanut sauce. Oh, that peanut sauce! If there is a kitchen in heaven, I suspect this is where the recipe originated. Absolutely unbelievable! All accompanied by rice, various vegetables and a small serving of pickled salad. A wonderful meal, and one of the highlights of the entire day. Finally, a few words about the people. Everywhere we went, people were friendly, smiling and eager to help. And the phrase “Sorry, sir” seemed to appear in every second sentence. I understand that this comes from a culture of politeness and respect, and I certainly appreciate the kindness. But I must admit that after a while, the constant deference made me slightly uncomfortable. I am not above anyone simply because I am a foreign visitor, and I would much rather meet people on equal terms than be treated as someone of special importance. There is a difference between hospitality and subservience, and I sincerely hope Indonesians never feel they need to practise the latter to demonstrate the former. Jakarta, however, is quite another story. The tour was mainly by car and indoors — a wise decision considering the heat, pollution and smog. A walking tour during the smog season is something I would certainly not recommend unless you have a particular desire to test the limits of your respiratory system. And then there is the traffic! Coming from a country where traffic generally follows some recognizable rules, Jakarta was quite an experience. Cars, buses and, above all, scooters. Scooters everywhere! One, two, sometimes threesome on the same seat, weaving through the traffic in what can only be described as organized chaos — although I am still searching for the organized part. The scooters are the pulse- the blood of of Jakarta. Unfortunately, I got the distinct impression that the patient is approaching cardiac arrest. The city seems permanently on the verge of total gridlock. One more scooter, one more car, and the whole system might simply stop. To me, the lack of long-term urban planning and sufficient infrastructure investment is painfully obvious. Unless there is a major step-change in public transportation, road infrastructure and government foresight, I struggle to see a future for Jakarta as a town. And then there is the rubbish. Plastic, plastic and more plastic. Along roads, in waterways, in open spaces — everywhere. This was perhaps the most disappointing aspect of Jakarta, and one that extends well beyond the question of traffic and infrastructure. Governments certainly have a responsibility to provide proper waste collection, recycling systems and environmental protection. But ordinary people also have a responsibility for their own surroundings. From what we observed, there appears to be an alarming indifference to what happens to rubbish once it leaves someone’s hand. The attitude sometimes seemed to be: If it’s no longer in my hand or house, it’s no longer my problem. Well, it is! It is difficult to understand how people can take such pride in their homes, families, traditions and country, yet apparently show so little concern for the environment immediately outside their front door. Indonesia is an extraordinarily beautiful country, and watching parts of it disappear beneath discarded plastic is both sad and frustrating. National pride should surely include taking care of the country itself! Fortunately, Ine also introduced us to some of Jakarta’s fascinating history. So, what is my conclusion? Jakarta is fascinating, chaotic, exhausting, historically interesting, occasionally beautiful and environmentally disturbing — sometimes all within the same breath. The traffic is approaching the absurd, the pollution is deeply concerning, and the apparent lack of environmental awareness, combined with inadequate infrastructure and planning, raises some serious questions about the city’s future. Yet behind all this are warm, welcoming people, a fascinating culture and some truly wonderful food. And then there was Ine! Her enthusiasm, humour, spontaneity and genuine friendliness turned what could easily have been an exhausting day into a memorable experience. She didn’t try to sell us a polished postcard version of Jakarta. Instead, we got a glimpse of the real city, with its charms, contradictions and considerable problems. And that, to me, is what travelling is all about. Five stars for Ine and the tour. Jakarta itself? Well, let’s just say there is considerable room for improvement! Thank you, Ine, for a wonderful day, the laughter, the conversations, the ABBA songs — and perhaps the beginning of a new friendship!